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Exploring Baden-Baden: A Perfect Two-Day Itinerary in the Black Forest

  • Karina
  • Sep 5, 2024
  • 6 min read

Updated: Nov 19, 2024


pump house
Trinkhalle, Baden Baden, Germany

This summer of 2024, I finally made it to the charming town of Baden-Baden. I've always wanted to expeience the hype, and let me tell you — it was everything I needed and more!


Nestled in the heart of the Black Forest, this small spa town feels like a perfect escape, blending natural beauty, luxury, and rich history. 


I mean, where else can you start the day with a mountain hike, unwind in centuries-old thermal baths in the afternoon, and top it off with a night at a world-class casino? Now that's my kind of day!

But before we dive into the fun stuff, here are a few things to know before visiting Baden-Baden:


baden baden town

Where is Baden Baden, what is Baden Baden known for?


Baden-Baden is a picturesque spa town located in southwestern Germany, near the French border, within the Black Forest region.

It is known for its luxurious thermal spas, charming Old Town, elegant casino, and scenic Black Forest location, offering a mix of relaxation, culture, and natural beauty.


How to Get to Baden-Baden?


By Car If you enjoy the freedom of the open road, driving to Baden-Baden and around Black Forest area is a delightful option. 


By Train: For a more relaxed journey, the train is also an excellent choice. 

We took this route from Frankfurt and arrived in Baden-Baden in under two hours.


From Baden Baden Train Station, we took a taxi to the main city centre that cost around 30 euros. For a more budget-friendly option, you can also catch a bus right outside the station.


A day pass costs 6 euros and will take you directly to the heart of town.


Is Baden Baden Expensive?


It depends—Baden-Baden is generally seen as expensive due to its luxury accommodations and high-end dining. However, you can find affordable Airbnbs close to the centre and where you can also save on dining. 


The spa experiences are reasonably priced; for example, a two-hour session at Caracalla costs just 23 euros!


How long should I stay in Baden Baden?


If you want to enjoy and see all that Baden Baden can offer, spend two to three days—if you only want to explore the town, one day is sufficient. 


What to pack for Baden Baden


Your usual stuff - Just don't forget your swimwear!



First Day in Baden Baden

beautiful train station
Baden Baden Train Station

Arrival and Exploring the Old Town of Baden Baden


We arrived in Baden-Baden just before noon, and luckily, we were able to check into our Airbnb early.


Where did we stay:


This is an airbnb / apartment conveniently located just 400 meters from the center of Baden-Baden. We stayed for 2 nights at €130 per night. It features a fully equipped kitchen, perfect for preparing snacks for our hikes, and offers ample space for a comfortable stay.


Lunch in the Old Town

street
Town of Baden Baden

First stop? Food! We headed to Bickeler Confiserie-und Kaffeehausebetriebe for a light lunch. 


Their sandwiches and cakes are so good, and sitting outside on a patio, soaking in the atmosphere of this quaint town, was the perfect intro to Baden-Baden.


Afternoon: A Walk Through History and Nature 

trinkhalle
Trinkhalle, Baden Baden, Germany

The town is super walkable, so after lunch, we wandered over to the Trinkhalle

This 19th-century pump room with frescoed walls felt straight out of a different time.


From there, we walked through Lichtentaler Allee, a park with towering trees, overwhelming with its abundance of flowers and trees and a calming vibe that really lets you slow down.


woman on a bridge in a river park
Lichtentaler Allee, Baden Baden

This hidden gem had me snapping photos left and right with its picturesque mini bridges.


half tree trunk in a park
Lichtentaler Allee, Baden Baden

I also recommend walking through Gönneranlage, a rose garden that was in full bloom. 


fountain with stone statue
Gönneranlage, Park and Garden, Baden Baden

Evening: Baden Baden Casino


Even if you’re not a big gambler (like me), you’ve got to check the Casino. It’s one of Europe’s most elegant casinos, and walking in felt like stepping into a movie.


white building in a park
Baden Baden Casino (Wikipedia)

And fun fact: I actually won 65 Euros on the slots machines — beginner’s luck, I guess?


lounge
Inside Baden Baden Casino

What to know before visiting Casino Baden-Baden

passport and ticket

The main gaming area and the slot machine area is separate 


Dress Code: The main gaiming area enforces a formal dress code. A jacket, and shirt are required for men, if you dont have a jacket, you can rent a one for 10 Euros .

The dress code is less strict in the slot machine area.


Entrance Fees: There's a 5 Euro fee to enter the main gaming area for table games like roulette. A passport for is also required for identification.

There is no fee for the slot machine.




lamp at night infant of a pretty building
Baden Baden Casino in the evening


Second Day in Baden Baden


hiking trail black forest
Hiking Trail from Merkur Mountain, Black Forest

Hiking and Spa in Baden Baden


Day two started with some adventure. We caught a bus to the Merkur Funicular Railway, which took us up to Merkur Mountain


The ride up was so cool, and the view from the top was absolutely stunning. 


Funicular Railway
Merkur Funicular Railway

We packed a picnic lunch and found a quiet spot with a panoramic view of the Black Forest and beyond. Talk about a peaceful morning.


observation tower
Obervation Tower, Merkur Mountain, Baden Baden

If you're up for it, there are plenty of hiking trails at the top, from easy going strolls to more intense treks. 


trail
Hiking Trail, Black Forest

One of the most easy and popular hiking trails is the Panoramaweg, a 40-kilometre circular trail that offers some of the best views of Baden-Baden and the Black Forest.


We spotted a few paragliders, which gave the mountain a super free-spirited feel.


black forest view from top of mountain
View from Merkur Mountain (Paraglider, Baden, Baden and Black Forest)

Afternoon: Black Forest Cake and Soaking in the Caracalla Spa, Baden Baden


black forest cake
The Original Black Forest Cake

After our hike, we decided to reward ourselves with a slice of Black Forest cake from one of the many cafés in town—after all, we were in the heart of the Black Forest!


But to our surprise, the cake was a bit different from what we expected.


The alcohol in the cherries was very strong, unlike the sweeter, more "westernized" version we’re used to.


It threw us off a bit, so we balanced things out with some delicious pistachio ice cream instead.


pistachio ice cream
Pistachio Ice Cream

The spa, however, fully lived up to the hype!


Stepping into the warm thermal waters of the Caracalla Spa was exactly what we needed after a long morning hike.


We spent the afternoon drifting between the indoor and outdoor pools, letting all the tension melt away.


The outdoor pools, with their stunning views of the surrounding hills, were particularly soothing, and by the time we left, we felt completely refreshed and rejuvenated.


spa
Caracalla Spa Indoor pool

The spa also offers massage sessions, but you'll need a reservation. The reservation office closes promptly at 5 PM, so don’t make the mistake we did by showing up last minute!


Evening: Farewell Dinner in Baden Baden


For our final evening in Baden-Baden, we decided to dine at a cosy Italian restaurant just outside the Caracalla Spa—Lifestyle. We shared a mouth-watering seafood pasta and took a delicious pizza to-go, perfect for satisfying those late-night cravings. 


The casual ambiance was exactly what we needed, and the food was spot on. Reflecting on the last two days, we realised we have to return to Baden-Baden at some point.


seafood pasta
Seafood Pasta (Photo by Desativado)


Other Must-Visit Restaurants in Baden-Baden:


  • Löwenbräu Baden-Baden: Must try while in Baden Baden. A classic spot to enjoy traditional German fare in a warm, inviting setting. 

  • La Gondola: A charming restaurant offering authentic Italian cuisine with a cozy atmosphere. The pasta dishes are especially good, and they boast an excellent wine selection.


park with treated flowers
Gönneranlage, Park and Garden, Baden Baden

Final Thoughts: A Timeless Retreat 


Wins on this trip - Baden-Baden isn’t as crowded as other popular German destinations. We visited in July, right in the middle of the summer season. While there were tourists, you won’t encounter those massive tour buses and large groups, making it the perfect spot for relaxation.


Baden-Baden has a way of making time slow down — but in the best way possible. 

Whether you’re hiking, relaxing in thermal baths, or strolling through its historic streets, the town gives you a break from the rush of daily life. 


Two days in Baden-Baden left me feeling completely recharged, and I already know I’ll be back—definitely for three days, with a car next time!


If you’re heading to the Black Forest or just passing through, give Baden-Baden a try. Even if it's just to explore the town, enjoy the spa, or visit the casino, it’s got a great vibe!


So what are you waiting for, pack your bags (and swim suit), book that train/car, and get ready to discover a town that feels both timeless and unforgettable.





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